The Search for General Tso (FILM REVIEW)
The Search for General Tso
Film
Review by Kam Williams
Culinary Documentary Explores Derivation of Delectable Chinese
Dish
General
Tso‘s Chicken is the most popular takeout dish ordered by
American diners. But who was General Tso? Was he actually a military hero, or was
his title merely honorary, a la that of “Colonel” Sanders of Kentucky Fried
Chicken fame?
Was he even the
originator of the delectable entrée that bears his name, or was the ingenious recipe
created by his wife or a cook? What are its ingredients? When was it introduced
to the United States?
Why has it proved so popular with the American palate? And are the Chinese as
fond of the sweet and spicy fried fare?
These are among the intriguing
questions posed by The Search for General Tso, a
culinary documentary any Chinese food lover is likely to find fascinating. The
picture was written and directed by its host/narrator, Ian Cheney, whose dogged,
globe-spanning quest for answers led from Brooklyn to Asia and back around the U.S.
Along the
way, we learn that there was, indeed, a General Tso, a legend who distinguished
himself on the battlefield in the 19th Century towards the end of the
Qing Dynasty. However, his clueless descendants have no idea how their esteemed
ancestor came to be associated with the unfamiliar dish, since it is a very
modern invention traceable to Taiwan
in the 1960s. Without ever being introduced to mainland China, it crossed the Pacific Ocean a decade or
so later, taking the States by storm, starting with San Francisco.
Besides
unearthing these and other intriguing tidbits, intrepid Cheney devotes his time
to tracking down and interviewing chefs claiming to be the pioneer who first
put General Tso’s on the menu. Of course, he also devours many mouth-watering
morsels of the honey-glazed chicken chunks, too, which is exactly what you’ll
be craving as the closing credits roll.
The
cinematic equivalent of an entertaining encyclopedic entry about the most
irresistible offering on today’s Chinese takeout menu!
Excellent
(4 stars)
Unrated
In English and Mandarin with subtitles
Running time: 72
minutes
Distributor: IFC
Films / Sundance Selects
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